Tea taster blog

Yesterday Kevin caught up with his old friend Mr.Panjikar who left Gopaldhara last year to take up managing the garden of Guyabaree.  In 10 years of hard work he had brought Gopaldhara to be one one of the best quality gardens in the region of Darjeeling, so it was a bit of a shock to hear that he was leaving at the end of last year.

His new post is a very different  challenge with 80% assamica plants and no reputation for quality, the garden is in need of care and the factory in disrepair. “I am not even starting at zero here, I am starting below zero!  There is much work to do, but you will see by 2015 you will be tasting some fantastic teas”

In tasting the teas were all assamica’s, all suprisingly smooth, lively and without harshness, the Panjikar touch was already starting to make its mark.

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After a morning at the old very established Castleton, where there were some great teas up for tasting.  The next garden on today’s itinerary was Giddapahar.  It was the first time Kevin had been there.  A fascinating little operation that is run as a family business, a very unusual set -up in the Darjeeling region.

Sudhan Shu and his brother are the current generation of a story that goes back to the family taking over in 1881.  Some parts of the garden are nearly at 2000m almost all old china.  This tiny garden is only producing around 200kg per day.  The factory itself looks like a museum with some old machines of Irish manufacture that date back to 1911.  Two hand built sifters and storage bins add to the charming authenticity of the factory.  The teas were above average and the brothers very modest about their efforts to improve.  One tea really stood out and will be found in the Spring catalogue…

Foreground Pu Er Xianguan 1998-76563 loose leaf and Pu Er 2005 cake in the background.

Enthusiasts know that most tea is ephemeral, it won’t last for long and it should be consumed while it is still fresh before harvest of the following year. Pu Er teas however can be kept for decades and seem that they will last forever.  So we were sad to see the end of our reserves of the 1995 Shou and the Yongming 2006.  To replace these favourites 2 very interesting new teas have just arrived from Hong Kong, selected to fill these gaps in our catalogue.  They are the Xiaguan 1998 -76563- loose leaf and the Haiwan 2005 in cake.

These 2 teas have already been well aged and have developed smoothness, depth and rich comforting liquors. The Xiaguan 1998 has a lighter character with a thick yet silky liquor, rustic notes (liquorice root, resin, cacao), it is slightly mineral and sweet (beet, potato and fresh cereal). The Haiwan 2005 cake is made of larger leaves and gives a strong almost black liquor.  Grilled barley aromas sweet notes of brown sugar and fresh berries ……..Both are generous when re-infused and make an ideal introduction into the fascinating world of Pu Er Tea.

Kevin tasting different invoices from the same garden.

Once a batch of tealeaves is plucked from the garden it is rushed to the factory to be processed.  Left too long the leaves would oxidise and become useless.  Thus we find some form of factory in every size of tea garden.  The leaves are passed through the various machines in the factory depending on the style of finished tea desired.  The final steps in the manufacturing process are to grade and then pack the tea into invoices.

It is important to distinguish the difference between the “grade” and the “invoice”.

Grade denotes the quality;

As a batch of leaf is finished in the factory it is first sorted into different grades. In most producing countries this is based on industrial standard sizes, or shape of finished leaf.  These different shapes and sizes of leaf can be sorted with anything from a simple grill to the complex computer systems we see in Japan. Once the batch is sorted each grade will be will be packed separately.  Different grades are of interest to different parts of the tea market.

With Taiwanese teas the grades are often used in the name of the tea thus Bai Hao1 would be superior to Bai Hao 2.

Invoice denotes the lot number/code for auction:

To prepare for auction the separated grades of each batch of finished tea will be given an invoice number.  These invoices now ready to be offered against other invoices of the same grade from different days of production, and invoices from other gardens.  Indian teas are often named this way.

Example: Darjeeling Singell DJ-2

Darjeeling: the region

Singell: the garden

DJ-2*: the invoice number.

*With Indian teas the invoices are numbered chronologically.

You may have heard through the grapevine that our new book Thé: histoire, terroirs, saveurs (published by Éditions de l’Homme) has just gone on sale in stores. Our team of tasters put together this vast project that took 2 intense years to complete. The result is an exceptional book. As informative for a beginner as it is nourishing for an expert. It contains so many facets of the fascinating world of tea: history, terroir and producing countries, tasting, infusion techniques, original recipes and an extensive section of all new laboratory results on the chemistry of our favourite drink. Not to mention hundreds of beautiful original photos from archives of many years spent visiting the tea lands.  As yet the book is only available in French but an English translation is in the works so we will keep you up to date.

A chest in natural fibers offering air circulation can be a good choice for Pu Er conservation.

Pu Er collectors, be they amateur or specialist will at some point come accross the challenge of creating ideal storage conditions for ageing their collection.  Most mature Pu Er teas have been aged in the tropically hot and humid conditions of Hong Kong, Macao, Taiwan or Malaysia.   Unfortunately N.America  does not naturally have the ideal conditions for the job.  Artificial conditions are necessary for storing these teas if they are to age well.  Below are the general parameters needed to store either Sheng or Shou Pu Er :

Constant temperature between 20 and 30 degrees celcius (68-86F) ;

Relative humidity between 50% and 80% ;

Good air circulation ;

Odor free environment ;

Darkness.

So that the naturally occuring yeasts and bacterias of the Pu Er leaves will activate and gradually transform the teas over the years, a warm and humid environment is preferable.  Though heat is rarely a problem in this continent humidity is a little more challenging.The dry warm air of our heated houses over the colder months will cause dormancy in the micro-organisms of our teas.  The maturing process will thus be reduced to a standstill.  To increase the relative humidity it is therefore necessary : to use a humidifier, a container of water close to the tea or some other source of water.  Adequate ventilation is absolutely essential to provide enough oxygen for the oxidation to occur, plastic bags or air-tight containers are not recommended. Beware of  sealed humidors where the water source is too close to the tea the risk of mould is a problem which will introduce foreign tastes and smells that do not belong to the tea. Ideal materials, that will both breathe and absorb unwanted odors from the air include : unglazed terra cotta, bamboo products or cardboard. We carry a few ceramic Pu Er jars in our stores specifically for this purpose. Darkness is the final important factor as the appearance and flavour will both be effected by extended exposure to light. Also note that we always make an effort to separate our Sheng Pu Ers from our Shou Pu Ers to avoid the exchange of aromas.

A hygrometer is a useful instrument to evaluate the optimal conditions for Pu Er aging.

Without getting too obsessive it is important to understand the necessary conditions for the ageing of our Pu er teas.  It must be considered as an artificial micro-system that will be sustained for the next 10 years or more.  It is better to find a simple effective solution that ages the teas slowly than risk your collection of teas.  My recommendation is to simply use a half-open cardboard box in the wardrobe or cupboard with controlled humidity of 50%-60% relative humidity (the recommended level for a healthy living space).

We can see here the contrast between Pu Er sheng (left), and Pu Er shou (right).

The world of Pu Er, the post-oxidised teas exclusively produced in the Chinese province of Yunnan, is complex and captivating.  It can even be a little confusing due to the many facets and variables of this fascinating style of tea.  These teas are well known for their unusual ageing process, their unique flavours and aromas as well as their health benefits.  Another important distinction of Pu Er remains : the différence between Shou and Sheng.

Sheng Pu Er, also called « raw », is a naturally post-fermented.  It is produced by a bacterial fermention that is the trademark of this style of tea that occurs after the teas have been transformed.  Pressed or loose the leaves are still green at the beginning of the ageing process to be « worked » over time by micro-organisms(fermentation), this will gradually change the colour, taste and aroma of the tea.  The colour will become increasingly brown as a result of oxidation.  Provided all the specific conditions are in place years are required before this style of Pu Er will attain maturity (generally between 10 and 60 years).  This is the traditional Pu Er process.

Shou Pu Er, also called « cooked », is a post-fermented tea from more modern methods.  Inspired by black tea manufacturing and  often using artificial introduction of additional bacteria, this style allows green Pu er to mature very rapidly in artificial conditions (usually in a factory).  Thus in just a few weeks the leaves will be fermented and almost 100% oxidised.  The many years of ageing needed for the Sheng Pu ers is reduced to a couple of months !  The result is a very dark, often almost black, tea that may still benefit from a little ageing but will be « mature » a lot sooner.

Infusion of Pu Er sheng (left), and Pu Er shou (right) of the same year of production.

Both Pu Er styles offer similar flavour profiles but are nevertheless different : Each year or harvest of Pu Er Sheng has a different degree of maturity depending on its age.  A younger tea will have « green » characteristics (such as grassy, fruity, bitter or astringent)where an older will have« mature »characteristics (woody, mineral, rounded, sweet).  Where a young « sheng » may cost very little the genuine aged ones can cost a fortune.  This is when the « shou » become more interesting as they have the characteristics of an aged « sheng »(though a little less complexity) but they cost a lot less……perfect to drink while you wait for your Pu Er « sheng »to age gradually in your tea cellar.

Long Jing (commonly called “Dragon Well”) is China’s most prestigious tea. Cultivated near Hangzhou (capital of Zhejiang and famous for magnificent Lake Xi Hu), this green tea with its long, flat leaves offers up a sophisticated liquor with delicate herbaceous, floral, and fruity notes. Given its immense popularity, the Long Jing name is unfortunately over-exploited and most teas sold under the name don’t even hail from the original terroir. Therefore, it’s important to make a clear distinction between Xi Hu Long Jing and Zhejiang Long Jing.

Xi Hu Long Jing teas, cultivated in the original zone, are entirely processed by hand: from the picking to the final sifting. Mostly, they come from two opposite mountainsides: famous Shi Feng (Lion’s Peak), charming site of Long Jing village, and Meijiawu, the neighbouring village. The spring harvest is split into two categories: the most prestigious is Ming Qian, an imperial harvest which takes place before the celebration of Qingming around March 20. Two weeks later, the high quality Yu Quan harvest is done. The Long Jing Shi Feng and Long Jing Meijawu teas in our catalogue fall into this category.

As for the Zhejiang Long Jing teas, they are cultivated all over Zhejiang province and are generally picked by hand but are processed by machine. They may be good quality but they do not generally possess the distinctive aromatic characteristics of the guaranteed origin Long Jing teas. The Yuzan from our catalogue is a lovely example of a Zhejiang Long Jing . . . however, despite its fairly close resemblance, we are very careful not to automatically give it the same designation! My suggestion is to try a side-by-side tasting with another Long Jing from our catalogue.

Long Jing is China’s most imitated tea and it is interesting to note that most of the Long Jing teas on the market actually come from other provinces such as Yunnan, Sichuan, and Guizhou. Generally speaking, they are but pale imitations.

The Long Jing Shi Feng teas in our catalogue are produced by the Tang family, who make only 400 kilograms of this vintage per year, and they are all processed by hand. And sadly, even in Long Jing, more and more producers are using machines for the initial wilting in order to shorten the time spent on manual drying (where the leaves are panned in large heated woks to halt oxidation). That is why it is important to us, during our springtime buying visits for our catalogue, to personally ensure that traditional technique and artisanal quality standards are fully respected in regard to all the teas we purchase.

If the quality of the tea and the appropriate infusion tools are important to enjoying a special tea, it is possible that a crucial detail may be overlooked—the water. In fact, 99.8% of a cup of tea is water.  If your water quality isn’t good, it’s almost impossible for the tea to reach its full potential. Chlorine is an aroma’s biggest enemy, as it has the ability to “extinguish” a wonderful tea. For anyone accustomed to drinking tea made from chlorine-free water comes the eventual disappointing experience of being stuck in a situation (whether on vacation or at home with family) of having to infuse a precious tea with tap water. Please do your best to avoid using this water. A water filtration system (Brita, for example) will lessen the negative effect of tap water. Without such equipment, it is recommended to let the water sit for a few hours so the chlorine can evaporate. Spring water remains the best option. Many types of bottled water are available, and each one imparts a different taste or texture to a given tea.

A few months ago, a blind taste test held by members of our staff demonstrated that some types of water provided more delicious infusions than others. For inquiring minds, I recommend trying to perform your own tests on your favourite teas; the results will surely be surprising! My advice: If you’re like me and you don’t wish to spend inordinate amounts of money on gallons and gallons of spring water (not to mention the negative environmental impact of plastic and/or delivery), get yourself a Brita filter (preferably the model that connects directly to your tap) for your everyday teas—and for the rest of your household drinking needs while you’re at it—and choose a good quality spring water for brewing more precious teas. I’m certain you’ll notice a significant difference. Let me know how it goes!

Every spring we journey to Asia to source the best teas available, and customers sometimes ask how we go about choosing tea once we get there.  Whether in China, Taiwan, Japan, India or Sri Lanka, the procedure is pretty much the same: tasting sets, one for each batch, are lined up in order to compare the selection of teas offered by a given producer. This way, the teas are compared fairly: same leaf weight, same quantity and temperature of water, same infusion time. The dry leaves are displayed next to each tasting bowl, which are placed near the cup’s lid containing the infused leaves. Our eyes, noses, and mouths are put to the test as we try and detect the strengths and weaknesses of every tea . . . sometimes up to several hundred of them! Once our choices are made, price information and batch sizes are discussed and then arrangements are made for the actual purchase and subsequent shipment by air to Montréal. As for the teas produced the rest of the year (when our experts are not in Asia), the producers and suppliers we have been dealing with for years send us numerous samples that we then test in the same way as mentioned before. Thus, throughout the rest of the year, we have the privilege of receiving unique teas chosen from an enormous selection. And that’s how our customers come to be spoilt for choice!

Hugo and Kevin evaluating a large number of Pu Er teas

First, let’s clear up a common misconception: What is the proper term is for this stimulant when it appears in tea? Caffeine. While it was believed for many years that there were two different “-ines”, one for coffee and one for tea, researchers have determined that there is but one alkaloid, simply associated to different elements: the tannins in tea and the chlorogenic acid in coffee. Caffeine is released into the body differently in each case: more suddenly and briefly for coffee (more at the physical/cardiac level than at the mental/intellectual level), and rather more mildly and gradually (with longer lasting effects) in the case of tea. Caffeine in tea generally gives a feeling of intellectual alertness, quick-wittedness, and an increased ability to concentrate—all depending on each person’s sensitivity. While the stimulatory effects of coffee are felt for two to three hours after ingestion, the effects of tea can be felt for four to six hours (and those of a green tea even longer: six to eight hours). According to important research, a cup (100 mL) of filter coffee contains 80 to 150 mg of caffeine and a cup of tea contains only 30 to 90 mg.

People often ask me what tea to drink at different times of the day: “Which is best to wake up with in the morning? And which is best for drinking later in the day?” Even experienced tea drinkers sometimes hesitate before serving tea in the evening, fearing that the stimulating effects of caffeine will keep people from falling asleep. While most black, green, and young sheng Pu Er teas are reserved for morning and afternoon (they have relatively high caffeine content), white, most wulongs, and aged Pu Er teas are recommended for later in the day or simply for moments of relaxed tea drinking. We do not recommend drinking decaffeinated tea; not only will you be limited to industrially processed teas but these teas will have very likely been treated with chemicals to reduce the amount of caffeine. Some say that if a tea is pre-infused for one minute and that this “first water” is discarded, the major part of the alkaloid is then extracted from the leaves. In fact, recent studies have shown that it takes about five minutes for 80% of a tea’s caffeine content to be released. Therefore one minute of pre-infusion would only extract 20% of the initial quantity of caffeine! And since a long pre-infusion would inevitably lead to a considerable loss of flavour and aroma, we believe that it’s better to choose a tea according to the time of day rather than try and change the very nature of its leaves.

External links:

“Caffeine” on Wikipedia

“Caffeine and Tea: Myth and Reality” on Cha Dao tea blog